the
perfect espresso?
The word
'espresso' is derived from the Italian word for express, since espresso
is made and served immediately to the customer.
A double espresso is a 47 - 62.5 ml (1.5 - 2 ounce) extract
that is prepared from 14 - 17 grams of coffee, through
which purified water of 88 - 95°C has been forced at 9 - 10
atmospheres of pressure for a brew time of 22 - 28
seconds.
The espresso should drip out of the porta-filter like warm
honey, have a deep reddish-brown color, and a crema that
makes up 10 - 30% of the beverage.
Espresso brewing is defined by four "M's":- the
Macinazione is the correct grinding of a coffee blend,
Miscela is the coffee blend, Macchina is the espresso
machine, and Mano is the skilled hand of the barista.
When each factor of the four M's is precisely controlled,
the espresso beverage that is produced is the ultimate
coffee experience.
The properties of a perfectly
made Espresso
Espresso
coffee has three unmistakable properties:
-
its Cream: namely, the
foam that characteristically tops every good cup of espresso;
-
its Body: the emulsion of
the oils gives the coffee a fullness of body that cannot beobtained with any other coffee brewing technique;
-
its Aroma: the greater
richness in the aroma of espresso is due to the presence of
the cream which prevents the volatile substances from
dispersing into the air immediately after the preparation of
the coffee.
Espresso ‘Perfection’ - in detail
Ideally, espresso should be sweet, with a strong aroma and a flavor
similar to freshly ground coffee. The crema would be dark reddish-brown,
and it would be smooth, yet thick. A perfect espresso would be enjoyable
straight without any additives, yet bold enough not to disappear in
milk. A pleasant and aromatic aftertaste would linger on the palate
for several minutes after consumption.
The following factors are essential:
- Blend - Without a good
blend you cannot have a good espresso. Coffees must be blended to
achieve the sweetness, aromatics and smoothness desired in espresso.
The blend must also be fresh. It is recommended to use espresso within
four days of roasting.
- Roast - Too often you
will find espresso roasted very dark. This results in a bitter, charcoal
tasting brew. People that know how to blend espresso will roast light
to preserve the aroma and sugars.
- Grind - The grind must
be continuously monitored throughout the day to achieve an extraction
time of 25 - 30 seconds. Do not change the pressure you tamp with
to compensate for a grind that has become too large or small.
- Grinder - A high quality
burr grinder is essential for espresso. A conical burr grinder is
preferred to flat burrs since the particle size is more even, they
last longer, and the coffee is not heated during the grinding process.
If the burrs become hot the aroma of the coffee will be diminished.
A conical/parallel hybrid blade is considered the best design by many
coffee professionals.
- Dosing - Coffee must
be freshly ground to achieve peak flavors. Grind and dose on demand.
When someone orders an espresso, grind only what is necessary for
one shot, dose properly, tamp, and brew. Discard any espresso grounds
that are not used within 30 seconds.
- Distribution - Distribute
the coffee evenly after dosing in the porta-filter
before tamping.
- Tamping - Tamp the
coffee once very evenly with 5 lbs of pressure, then once with 30
lbs of pressure, and polish 720° with 20 lbs of pressure.
- Water mineral content
- The water used for espresso should be filtered.
Over time oxygen will be forced out of the water in the espresso machine
leading to off-tasting water. Try filling a small glass with water,
letting it cool,
and tasting it for off flavors. If the water tastes strange you may
want to dump the tanks daily and begin with fresh water.
- Water temperature -
The water temperature should be stable and somewhere between 92 -
96°C. The choice of the espresso machine is very important to both
water temperature and temperature stability.
- Temperature stabilizing
- A stable temperature means consistent espresso.
- Water pressure - The
pressure of the water forced through the espresso should be between
9 and 10 atm. This pressure is responsible for the development of
the crema.
- Boiler pressure - The
boiler pressure determines the amount of water to be incorporated
in the steam. If your milk is not foaming correctly you may want to
experiment with different boiler pressures, but this should only be
altered by professionals. You can check your boiler pressure by looking
at the boiler pressure gauge on the front of most espresso machines.
- Extraction time - Extraction
time to fill two 1 oz cups should be between 25 - 30 seconds. Despite
the time the pump should be turned off if the espresso becomes slightly
lighter in color. The goal is to have a dark red espresso take approximately
25 - 30 seconds to brew with no change in color.
- Porta-filter and basket
- The porta-filter should always remain the same temperature as the
water used to brew the espresso. Therefore it should always remain
in the group head. The basket should hold 16 - 18 grams of coffee
and must be straight walled. Curvatures in the basket will lead to
uneven extraction.
- Time - Act quickly,
but carefully. You should spend no longer than 30 seconds for the
time it takes to dose, distribute, tamp, pre-heat, and brew the espresso.

- Espresso machine cleanliness
- This is probably the biggest problem with espresso today. If the
machine, basket, and porta-filter are not cleaned
regularly the espresso will always taste rancid.
- Espresso grinder maintenance
- Everyday the burr blades should be swept clean. Between shots you
may want to brush out the excess espresso that
gets stuck between the burrs and the dosing chamber. The burrs must
be replaced at least yearly so that they continue to produce coffee
granules with
a maximal surface area.
- Environmental Factors
- The humidity and temperature will change throughout the day. Since
coffee is hydroscopic (absorbs moisture), the grind size must be changed
throughout the day to achieve a brew time of 25 - 30 seconds. The
temperature will not affect the espresso like the humidity, but it
is important to avoid exposing the coffee to any high temperatures
until brewing.
- Espresso cup - The
espresso cup should be pre-heated from a source other than the espresso
machine. Filling a cup with water from the espresso machine prior
to brewing the espresso will lower the temperature of the water in
the boiler and the espresso extraction will be uneven. The espresso
cup should have thick walls and a narrow mouth to retain heat and
aroma, respectively.
- Practice - The importance
of practicing and experimenting cannot be overstressed. The key to
espresso is to realize that it always has further potential. By changing
any one of these factors you can improve or diminish it. Espresso
preparation is an art that demands the precision and dedication of
science. A perfect espresso is more of a concept than an actuality.
The beauty of espresso is that it is volatile and difficult. If it
were easy, anyone could develop a machine that could brew a perfect
espresso every time. There are so many factors involved in espresso
preparation that only a great mind and a passionate heart can begin
to understand and control its complexity.
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